Manettes PS3

https://www.reddit.com/r/PS3/comments/tal6cz/what_version_of_dualshock_3_should_i_get/ 

https://console-test-universe.jimdoweb.com/sony/sony-playstation-3/sony-playstation-3-controller-variations/

https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Colours

https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/DualShock_3

https://www.reddit.com/r/PS3/comments/18wwmvt/a_list_of_all_playstation_3_controllers_color/

https://altarofgaming.com/playstation-3-controllers-color-variations-limited-editions/

The final letter on the end of the model number (CECHZC2-) makes no difference to the controller function or quality, it only corresponds to the geographic region the controller was sold in (along with the sticker having the matching safety mark logo for that region).

Despite there being numerous different internal revisions to the DualShock 3 design, the main model number never changed, but they did add letters to the later revisions like A1, B1, A2.

A1 are usually the 'mid-to-late' DS3 versions with VX5, VX6 and VX7 circuit boards.

A2 controllers are the final versions (VX7 and VX8) which are the smaller circuit boards. These models have analogue units which connect via ribbon cables rather than being soldered to the main board. They also have a rubber fin to press the ribbon cables against the contacts (rather than the foam piece which causes the ghost input error on older controllers).

B1 are usually the ASUKA boards which I'd avoid if possible based upon my experience. They have different analogue units which seem to be more prone to failure. That said, I've used the B1 without any problems myself long before I was aware of all the different models (but I don't play FPS shooters which use the L3 button).

I wouldn't worry too much about which version to get... but if possible ask the seller to provide you with whichever is in the best condition with the tightest analogue stick(s).

Japan had quite a few limited edition coloured PS3 consoles which came with matching DualShock 3s, so if you can find one of those that's a good way to ensure you're getting a legit controller.

Sorry if this is a needlessly long or over complicated answer, but hopefully it's helpful.

TLDR: Letter on the end of the model number makes no difference. Ideally you want to see the circuit board inside to prove it's a genuine Sony item and/or some assurance it's fully working with decent analogue sticks, Sixaxis and analogue face buttons. If you're paying a high price use a service which has some aftersales protection.

In case anyone wasn't aware the original Sixaxis (no rumble) has the model number CECHZC1- and the DualShock is CECHZC2-.

https://www.dutchgameboys.com/product-categorie/playstation/playstation-3/games-p3/